20 Beautiful Bulbs for Every Season

Flowering times

Below are the typical flowering times for these bulbs in my garden (Southern England)

▽

EARLY SEASON BULBS

(January – March)

Persian violet – January-February
(Cyclamen coum)

Hardy Cyclamen

There are several hardy cyclamen, with the most commonly seen being the ivy leaved cyclamen (C. hedarifolium — see #16) which flowers in late summer. However, the Persian violet (C. coum), flowers very early in the year, between January and March, providing flowers and foliage at a time when little else is going on in the garden. And because Cyclamen coum goes dormant in the summer it is perfect around the feet of deciduous shrubs, such as roses, which is where I have mine. Dormacy ends in late autumn, when grey-green or silver-marbled foliage emerges, creating very attractive ground cover. Flowering follows in January and continues for almost two months until mid March, with flowers held on short 4in (10cm) stalks. Available in various shades of mauve, pink and white, they create a sprinkling of delicate candy, twinkling even under grey winter skies. By late spring, the foliage dies back and the bulb (corm) goes dormant again.

I have been really impressed with my Cyclamen coum as they provide a long winter display in my gravel beds which are otherwise rather bare. This is a win-win, as the bulbs look really good against the bare gravel, especially once I clear away the autumn foliage of surrounding perennials. Buoyed on by their success, I have planted a dozen more in adjacent beds this year. I buy them as small pot plants (9cm) which establish much more reliably than dry bulbs.

• Needs winter sun, although it can tolerate part shade.
• Summer dormant & drought resistant.
• Good for growing in very dry soil e.g. at the base of conifers.
• 8+ weeks of flowers
• If happy, it will increase in size each year producing more flowers.
• May self seed.

Snowdrops – February
(Galanthus nivea)

Snowdrops

The earliest bulbs in my woodland garden are the snowdrops. Pushing up through the leaf mould, they bring a unique seasonal joy. I have single and double varieties, but the simple elegance of the single is hard to beat. In bud, it hangs as a pure white droplet, gradually opening into tiny, three-petalled lampshades. Flowering at the same time as primroses and hellebores, it is possible to create a very pretty picture in the late winter shade garden.

The grey-green foliage of snowdrops emerges in January prior to flowering, and persists until late May, when the bulbs go dormant. To my eye, the foliage of large clumps remains elegant for many weeks, acting quite like an ornamental grass. They really add to the picture as fern, primroses and other woodland plants fill out around them.

Although it is possible to grow snowdrops from dried bulbs, they establish much more successfully when planted from lifted bulbs that are already in growth. Many suppliers ship such snowdrops ‘in-the-green’ between January and March. Another benefit of planting in-the-green is that it is easier to identify gaps between existing plantings.

Snowdrops readily form offset bulbs, so bulk up quickly, however, they will eventually become congested, at which point flowering suffers. At this stage (or sooner) it is wise to dig up clumps, divide and replant in little groups of 5 or 6 bulbs. You can do this in spring while the clumps are in flower, or just after flowering. By regular lifting and dividing regularly, you can double the snowdrops in your garden every 2–3 years. See my article Planting Spring bulbs “in the green”.

• Snowdrops prefer summer shade: under a deciduous tree, or in a North facing border is ideal.
• Can be lifted and divided easily to create new clumps.
• 5 weeks of flowers
• Trouble-free and reliable

Crocus February-March

Crocus

Crocuses flowering in lawns are a common site in parks and gardens in very early spring. Indeed, given a sunny spot, these tiny corms often perform best (and live longest) when planted in short grass, as long as the first cut of the season is deferred until May to protect their leaves. In my garden I enjoy white Crocus ‘Jeanne d’Arc’ in February followed by lilac ‘Dutch striped’ in early March, both growing on the grassy roadside verge at the front of my house. I also grow them in pots, planted in the autumn, as a layer above tulip bulbs, providing two flushes of spring flowers.

Crocuses have two main disadvantages. First is their very short flowering period, typically lasting just two weeks. This can be extended a bit, by planting different varieties with different flowering times. The second problem is that they are attractive as food for hungry rodents, so will often be dug up. This seems to happen less when they are planted in grass. One solution is to place some chicken wire above them at planting time. See my article on planting bulbs in aquatic baskets for more ideas.

• Full sun in any soil that does not get waterlogged.
• Good planted above summer flowering bulbs.
• 2–3 weeks of flowers.
• Protect from rodents.

▽

Starflower – February-March
(Ipheion uniflorum)

Starflower

Spring starflower is a relative of garlic, but far prettier — and sweeter smelling — than that might sound. This early-spring flowering bulb has beautiful grassy foliage which emerges in autumn and looks handsome throughout winter. Given some winter sun, these bulbs may push out a few early flowers in January or February. However, peak flowering is in March, when the plants are covered with dozens of small (1.5in / 4cm), scented, starry, long-lasting flowers — very attractive to early pollinators. The species has pale blueish flowers, and named cultivars are available in various shades of pink, mauve and blue. These might sound tempting, but they are rather washed-out, more off-white. For my tastes, the pure white varieties are much more desirable, such as ‘Alberto Castillo’, which is a brilliant white with larger-than-average flowers — absolutely beautiful for weeks in March and April.

The grey-green foliage dies back by mid-summer when the bulbs go dormant. They can, therefore, be planted above late-emerging perennials such as Dahlias (See ‘Lasagna Layering With Summer Bulbs’), or in front of large perennials that will flop over them in the summer, helping make best use of limited space.

The bulbs themselves are pea-sized, but grow quickly to form a dense clump in a couple of years. They can be purchased in quantity cheaply, but my experience is that they are often mislabelled, coming up in unwanted murky colours. Now, I prefer to buy pot-grown plants or divide my established clumps in summer, once they have gone dormant.

• Starflower prefer full or part sun.
• Great in pots.
• 6 weeks flowering
• Lift and divide clumps every few years.

▽

Dwarf Narcissus March
(Narcissus ‘Jumblie’)

Dwarf Narcissi

I find the typical daffodil to be a rather garish and unnatural in most garden settings. Dwarf daffodils, on the other hand, are far more demure, fitting in naturally alongside other early woodland-edge perennials, yet being more robust (and easier to grow) than the wild species. Although there are endless varieties of Narcissi (even dwarf varieties), I like to keep to just one variety in a single area of my garden. In my Woodland garden, I grow Narcissus ‘Jumblie’, a miniature variety just 8 to 12in tall, with petals that reflex (turn backwards) a bit like cyclamen. It sometimes has two or three flowers per stem. The ever-popular Tête-à-tête or Jetfire are similar.

Grown in pots and bowls, I have found them easy to keep from year to year. I should probably lift and divide my clumps to reinvigorate them, but some have continued to put on a good display without intervention for well over a decade. Once they have finished flowering, I do dead-head them to help force energy into the bulbs instead of seed production.

• Full or part sun.
• Great in pots. Good as cut flowers.
• 4 weeks of flowers
• Deadhead, but leave foliage to die down naturally after flowering.
• Lift and divide clumps every few years.

▽

Anemone March-April
(Anemone blanda)

Winter Windflower

Commonly known as Grecian windflower, winter windflower, or Balkan anemone, Anemone blanda is a pretty and reliable low-growing bulb for woodland beds. It comes in shades of blue, mauve and white, enjoying part-shade and looking at home with emerging ferns and primroses. Creating low ground cover, it has finely divided foliage with hairy red stems. The daisy-like flowers close up at night, opening to nearly 2 inches (4-5cm) across in the day. They bloom for a surprisingly long period from mid-March until late April. I have found them much easier to grow than the native wood anemone (Anemone nemorosa), which is probably a blessing as the latter can run at the root once established, and become invasive. Anemone blanda, by contrast, is well-behaved, forming reliable, delicate clumps. Mine seed around, welcomely, not aggressively.

• Part shade, in cool soil.
• 4–6in (10-15cm) tall.
• 5–6 weeks of flowers.
• Look beautiful when massed around the feet of narcissi and ferns.

▽

Snowflake March-April
(Leucojum aestivum)

SUmmer Snowflake

Despite its name, the Summer Snowflake (Leucojum aestivum) actually flowers in spring, not summer. Bulbs are readily available in autumn, as are potted plants in spring. It naturally grows on the edge of damp woodlands. Its dark green strap-like foliage emerges in early March, quickly followed by flowering stems, which carry dainty sprays of dangling white bell flowers, each with green tipped petals. It flowers from mid-March into April.

Unfortunately, Summer snowflake is not without its challenges. First, as clumps get bigger they tend to flop. Several of my plants have to be supported to keep them off paths and adjacent plants. Second, the foliage does not die down until late in the summer, becoming increasingly tatty before finally turning yellow. Consequently, I think it is best planted behind summer perennials that will grow up in front of it, hiding the old leaves. I have seen it looking very natural, flowering among rough grass at the edge of ponds, as well as in large public plantings in central London.

• Sun or part shade, with moist soil in spring.
• 18–24in (45–60cm) tall.
• 3+ weeks of flowers.
• Consider planting behind summer perennials which can hide its old foliage.

▽

Grape Hyacinths – March/April
(Muscari americanum cultivars)

Grape Hyacinths

Grape hyacinths are an easy bulb to grow in beds or pots, given a sunny, open position. The wild type are deep blue, but cultivars have been developed in various shades of violet-blue, pale blue, white, and recently, even pink, e.g. ‘Pink Sunrise’, although I have not grown this newcomer. In the warmest, sunniest parts of the garden, grape hyacinth will open in late March, whereas in cooler or partly shaded spots it waits for early April. By June seed pods form, which in some situations are interesting in their own right. By July, the seed-pods dry before bursting, scattering small black seeds, which will often germinate, potentially invasively.

I have grown grape hyacinths successfully in pots where they can tolerate considerable neglect once flowering is over. My largest colony of Grape hyacinth, however, thrived in the shallow soil of my Green Roof, where they naturalised, proving themselves to be tough and persistent, surviving summer drought and exposure to wind. I even found bulbs growing happily in a tangle of thyme stems, an inch above the ground!

• Full sun in well-drained soil.
• 6in (15cm) tall.
• 3–4 weeks flowering.
• If happy, will seed freely for better or worse.

▽

Mid SEASON BULBS

(April – June)

Camassia – April
(Camassia lectlinii ‘Caerulea’ / ‘Alba’)

Camassia

Camassias — also known as camass or quamash — are excellent, long-lived, tall bulbs of the lily family, which form dense clumps of lush green foliage above which rise spires of starry flowers in shades of blues, white and (recently introduced) pinks. Reliably perennial, they can be grown in the border or rough grass, and look lovely alongside prairie-style perennials and ornamental grasses.

The main downside is their all-too-brief flowering period which lasts only a couple of weeks. I grow two varieties: blue Camassia lechtlinii ‘caerulia’ and white ‘Alba’. The former flowers in April, while the latter waits until May. When I first planted ‘Alba’ in a part-shaded spot, it produced so many seedlings that I had to remove it. Later, I tried it next to my pond, in full sun, where it behaves much better — and I now remove the spent flowering stems before seed can form. Inexplicably, my blue ‘caerulia’ never sets seed.

• Full or part sun.
• 3ft (90cm) tall.
• 2–3 weeks of flowers.
• Deadhead to prevent excess seeding.

▽

Erythronium – April
(Erythronium )

Dog’s Tooth Violet

The corms of Erythroniums are elongated and often white, resembling a dog’s tooth, from which they get their common name. There are many good species and cultivars of Dog’s tooth violets (Erythroniums), all of which are reliably perennial in dappled shade with a cool soil. They flower in early April, soon after their patterned foliage emerges. Flowering is disappointingly short — perhaps just two weeks — but is made up for by their striking lily-shaped flowers.

E. ‘Pagoda’ is the largest variety that I grow, standing over 12in (30cm) tall when flowering. Its relatively large flowers are up to 2in (5cm) across. Slightly smaller at 10in (25cm) tall, is the pink fawn lily (E. revolutum) which flowers a week earlier — sometimes in late March. Finally, the tiny, UK native Dog’s tooth violet (E. dens-canis): This is the smallest, at just 4-5in (10-12cm) tall, and is also the earliest and most fleeting in flower and leaf. It has interesting spotted foliage and curious purple flowers on red stalks, but blink and you’ll miss it!

• Light shade.
• Woodland conditions.
• 2 weeks of flowers.
• Plant corms in autumn or potted plants in spring.

▽

Perennial tulips – April
(Tulip ‘Purissima’)

Early Perennial Tulips

Most hybrid tulip bulbs must be treated as annuals: planted in the spring, then lifted in summer, stored until autumn, then planted again — all a bit of a faff. If they are left in the ground they quickly deteriorate, weakened by competition from offset bulbs which usually produce foliage but no flowers. If you want reliably perennial tulips (without the lifting faff), there are a couple of options: One is to grow species tulips, many of which make good perennials. The only downside is that they come in a rather narrow range of colours and sizes. Another possibility, though, is to grow Darwin Hybrid, or Fosteriana (Emperor) tulips, as these are more reliably perennial than other tulip groups, and plant them deep.

I have only tried one such tulip: ‘Purissima’ a white, early-season, Fosteriana, and it has been great, flowering throughout April, and persisting (so far) for 2–4 years. The trick to make these tulips become perennial is to plant them extra deep, with at least 8in (20cm) of soil above the bulb. At this depth, the offset bulbils die off because their shoots cannot reach the light, allowing the main bulb to retain its vigour. Of my Purissimas, I have noticed that bulbs planted in the sunniest borders are more reliably perennial than those planted in part shade.

• Full sun in deep, well drained soil.
• 18in (45cm) tall.
• 3–4 weeks flowering.
• Plant deep. Allow old foliage to die down naturally.

▽

Bluebell – May
(Hyacinthoides x massartiana)

English & Hybrid Bluebell

The Spanish bluebell (Hyacinthoides hispanica) is an introduced species in the UK which outcompetes, and readily hybridises with, the native bluebell (Hyacinthoides non-scripta) putting our wild plants at risk. I always try and buy bulbs sold as “English” or “Native” but, more often than not, they turn out to be hybrids (Hyacinthoides x massartiana) contaminated with some Spanish bluebell genes. I would happily remove all of my hybrid bluebells if I could be sure I was replacing them with true natives, but so far, no luck.

English bluebells can be magnificent: Deep violet blue with arched, one-sided sprays of narrow flowers. Given consistent moisture, they can grow quite tall (2ft/60cm) but are more often between 12-18inches (30-45cm). They look most at home under deciduous trees in the company of ferns and other woodland perennials. Plant certified bulbs in the autumn, or if you can find them, try “in-the-green” bulbs in spring.

• Full or part sun.
• 3ft (90cm) tall.
• 3 weeks of flowering
• Deadhead to prevent excess seeding.

▽

Alliums – May-June
(Allium sp.)

Ornamental onions

There are many good ornamental onions — I’m thinking here of the kinds with tall stems and globular heads of starry flowers which stick up like botanical lollipops in the border in May and June, rather than the clump-forming kinds that tend to be later flowering. These tall alliums have foliage that usually dies down just before (or soon after) flowering, enabling them to be squeezed in between spreading summer perennials. This is great for maximising precious border space.

The best performing for me is Allium christophii (Star of Persia)— reliably perennial, with huge 6-8in (15-20cm) silvery-purple flowers held 16-24in (40-60cm) high. Not only is this species one of the most striking and longest flowering of the onions, but it produces good quality seed heads, extending its interest even further.

I also grow A. hollandicum ‘Purple sensation’ which has smaller flower heads, just 2.5in (6cm) across, but they have a much shorter season of interest. I’ve tried other white and purple alliums over the years, but they all have various shortcomings, either dying out after one or two years, or ending up producing lots of foliage with no flowers. So, I’ve decided to simply plant a lot more Persian star.

• Full sun.
• 1.5-2ft (45-60cm) tall.
• Flowering for 2-3 weeks (A. christophii 4+ weeks.)
• Huge ornamental seed heads.

▽

Martagon lilies – June-July
(Lillium martagon)

Martagon Lilies

There are many great garden lilies, including Asiatic, Longiflorum, Trumpet, and Oriental lily groups. Most will flower well if planted in the ground in a well-drained sunny spot and come back year after year. Personally, I find them too short-flowering to be given precious space in the summer border, and they need a lot of care to keep the lily beetle at bay. Furthermore, after flowering, their gradually yellowing stems need to be accommodated. Because of this, I prefer to grow lilies in pots, starting them in the greenhouse where lily beetle is less of a problem, then moving them in and out of view for the few weeks they are looking their best. (See: Creative Ways to Use Pots in the Garden — Lilies)

The martagon lily, however, is an exception. It resents pot cultivation, and unlike the common garden lilies, dislikes full sun, preferring dappled shade. It also has some other unique characteristics which make it desirable as an in-ground lily: First, if you can make it happy (and it is fickle) it can be long-lived. Second, its preference for light shade, makes it ideal for growing in filtered sunlight under open canopy trees, where it is one of the latest woodland flowers to bloom. I grow the white variety ‘Albus’, but the species colour is maroon, and by some accounts is easier to grow. Of more than a dozen ‘Albus’ bulbs I have planted over the years, only five or six established. Even then, their display varies inexplicably each year. At their best, they grow 4ft (1.2m) tall and have 16-20 small flowers on each stem: a stunning sight. But some years they come up blind, or only produce a few blooms. Their small, fragrant, ‘turks-cap’ flowers are so enchanting though, that the effort and patience is worth it. At least, to it is to me: This year, I have planted 25 more bulbs in the hope that a few will choose to thrive here.

• Bright shade, with shelter from midday sun.
• They prefer a slightly acid to neutral soil that does not dry out, but with excellent drainage.
• 2-5ft (0.6-1.5m) tall.
• 3 weeks of flowers.
• Plant bulbs deep with grit (not compost), preferably in autumn, and don’t expect them to flower in the first year.
• Be patient. Don’t disturb the bulbs. Foliar feed in growing season. Watch out for lily beetle and treat promptly .

▽

Brodiaea (Tritelia) – June-July
(Brodiaea ‘Rudy’)

Brodeaea / Tritelia

Brodiaea, also known as Triteleia, is an easy-to-grow summer flowering bulb for the sunny border. It comes in various shades of purple and white. In my garden I grow Brodiaea ‘Rudy’ — a bicoloured purple/white variety — in free-draining beds alongside Mediterranean favourites such as salvia and verbena. I have been impressed with how easy it is to grow, and the stunning effect when it is in full flower. Early in the year, fresh grassy-green foliage appears, followed by flowering stems which open in June. Each stem carries a 6in (15cm) diameter head of trumpet-shaped flowers – a bit like agapanthus. With dozens of buds in reserve, it continues to flower for several weeks.

The only downside, is that as each flower goes over, it quickly dries to a light brown parchment colour, which somewhat detracts from the look. With so many flowers it is impractical to cut out the dead ones as they form, so you have to accept that the clump will gradually take on a more and more damaged look, until by late July, all the top growth has dried off and the bulbs enter dormancy. At this point the old stems are relatively easy to clear away. Growing them in pots would allow them to be moved out of sight while they are dying back.

• Full sun in free-draining soil.
• 18in (45cm) tall.
• 3–4 weeks of flowers.
• Plant bulbs in autumn or late spring in colder areas.
• Hardy to -5C, but mine have survived colder due to being in free-draining raised beds.
• Can be grown in pots, which can be brought inside and stored dry until the spring.

▽

Late SEASON BULBS

(July – Nov)

Ivy-Leaved Cyclamen — July-Sep
(Cyclamen hederifolium)

Ivy-Leaved Cyclamen

Ivy leaved cyclamen is an impressive flowering bulb (technically a corm.) Not only is it hardy and reliably perennial, but it flowers over a very long period. Add to this that its beautiful foliage continues to look good long after flowering — creating effective ground cover throughout winter — and you’ll appreciate why I rank it so highly.

Available in shades of pink, mauve and white, Cyclamen hederifolium grows happily in even quite dry shade such as that found at the base of conifers, as long as there is some light. North borders, or the shade beneath deciduous shrubs are ideal. The corms are dormant between March and July, at which time flowers begin emerging (usually before the foliage). My oldest corm has grown to nearly 30cm (1ft) across and throws up several-dozen flowers.

• Part shade in ordinary soil.
• 4–6in (10–15cm) tall.
• 6+ weeks of flowers (late July – September.)
• Marbled foliage persists through winter, (late July to March.)
• Establishes best when planted from growing plants rather than dried corms.
• Can tolerate dry shade, e.g. under conifers or shrubs.

▽

Pineapple lilies — Late July-August
(Eucomis sp.)

Pineapple Lily

Pineapple lily bulbs are chunky things, like large hyacinth bulbs. They flower in their first year after a spring or autumn planting. They are late to emerge above soil, often only becoming visible from June onwards. This makes it possible to grow spring annuals (such as pansies) on the surface above them, or as I have done, starflower bulbs. Pineapple lilies produce a rosette of leaves with an exotic look: thick, crisp and wavy. On some varieties the leaves are spotted. Flowering shoots rise from each bulb, carrying dense cylinders of starry flowers topped with a unique ruff of leaves producing that pineapple-top look.

I grow mine in containers, but they also do well in a free-draining beds. They are a little on the tender side (hardy to -5C or -10C), so it is best to move pots under cover in the winter, and mulch bulbs planted in the ground. I have grown the following varieties: Eucomis bicolour — which has greenish flowers in large heads, 18in (45cm) tall; E. autumnalis, which is a clearer white and grows to 15in (38cm) (see photos); and various ‘unlabelled’ varieties from the garden centre in shades of brown and pink. After the pollination, flowers are replaced with interesting seed pods, remaining attractive for an additional fortnight or more.

• Full sun in free-draining soil.
• 12–24in (30–60cm) tall, depending on variety.
• 4+ weeks of flowers.
• Plant bulbs in autumn or late spring.
• Can be grown in pots.

▽

Summer hyacinth – Late July-August
(Galtonia candicans )

Summer Hyacinth

Given a warm, sunny border, these tall, summer-flowering bulbs provide a dramatic and elegant display throughout August. Their tall spires of waxy white bells rise up to 4ft, and are frequented by pollinators. Easy to grow in free-draining soil. RHS give the hardiness as H4 (-5 to -10C), so in cold spots they would benefit from a winter mulch, or lifting. I’ve grown them in my Sussex Garden, in a clay-based soil without issue, for five years.

A useful feature of these bulbs is that the foliage emerges relatively late in the season (April), helping them avoid late frosts, and allowing them to be planted between earlier-flowering plants such as tulips or foxgloves. The foliage is deep green and sword-like. After flowering, the stems can be cut down, but the foliage should be left to die back in its own time.

• Full sun in free-draining soil.
• 3–4ft (0.6–1.2m) tall.
• 3 weeks of flowers.
• Plant bulbs in autumn or late spring. Spring planted bulbs flower later (September) in their first year.
• Can be grown in pots.

▽

Dahlias – Late June-October
(Dahlia sp.)

Dahlias Left In The Ground

Dahlias are considered tender and are usually lifted and stored over winter. However, in many parts of the UK, they may survive in the ground over winter. I have tried them in several situations with mixed results — unimproved garden beds (up to 4 years), raised sandy beds (5 years) and in large containers (2-5 years). Most have acted like short-lived perennials, surviving on average for three or four winters.

Rot seems, to be the main risk, rather than cold. When dry, they are hardy down to -10C. So, giving them a very free draining spot, such as in a raised bed, or by digging in plenty of sand, should give them a fighting chance. Covering the ground above them with dry mulch or a cloche over winter should also help, although mine have (mostly) survived without.

Dahlias emerge from the ground very late (May/June), so rarely suffer frost damage. They then grow quickly to flowering size. I prefer smaller varieties that don’t need much staking such as Dahlia ‘Gallery Art Fair’ (40cm, white), ‘Playa blanca’ (60cm, white cactus flowers), ‘Melody Harmony’ (75cm pink with dark purple foliage). Melody Harmony is planted in my free-draining raised beds, and so far, is thriving.

• Full sun in free-draining soil.
• 1.5–4ft (0.45–1.2m) tall (I prefer the shorter ones).
• 9+ weeks of flowers.
• Plant tubers in ate spring.
• Can be grown in pots which should be kept in a dry shed or garage over winter.

Guernsey lilies – October-November
(Nerine bowdenii)

Guernsey Lilies

Gurnsey lilies, or Nerines, provide a wonderful finale to the bulb season, flowering incredibly late in the year, when practically nothing else is in flower. In the southern-half of Britain, the hardiest species, N. bowdenii, can be grown successfully in a sunny, dry, sheltered spot, such as at the base of a south facing wall. They need a well drained soil (so dig in plenty of grit) and should be planted with their neck poking above the soil. They actually flower best when crowded, and do not like disturbance, so plant them close — but not touching — then leave them alone.

In spring, they produce dark green strappy foliage which may die back before flowering. In autumn, flowering stems emerge, rising to about 14 inches (35cm), from which flowers open in a circle on radial stems, like the spokes of a cartwheel. The trumpet flowers are spidery, with crinkled, recurved petals, and available in every shade of pink and white.

They are hardier in the ground than in pots, and I have lost several bowls of Nerines following a freeze. However, I know a grower who simply places an upturned bucket over hers during the winter months, and they always survive, showing that dryness is more important than cold protection.

• Full sun in free-draining soil.
• 1–2ft (30–60cm) tall.
• 3 weeks of flowers.
• Plant bulbs in autumn or late spring with 30% grit added to the soil.
• Hardy to -10C if soil is sufficiently dry.
• Can be grown in pots, with a 3:1 grit to compost ratio. During winter, move pots to an unheated greenhouse, conservatory, or sheltered porch (ideal: 2–7°C). Withhold watering until growth starts again in spring.

▽

Related posts