Creative Ways to Use Pots in the Garden

Growing plants in pots can be a challenge, but when successful, they can add depth and interest to a garden. In this article I’ll share some of the ways that I use pots and containers to enhance the design of my garden.

Ways To Use pots

Specimen planters
As a stand-alone feature, a beautiful pot can (literally and figuratively) elevate a handsome plant to really show it off. To my eye, the perfect combination of pot and plant enhance both. I think this is evident in the photo above, where two beautiful spherical stone planters carry magnificent clumps of agapanthus. If the pots were empty, or the clumps of agapanthus were planted in the border, neither would be quite as striking. Such specimen planters are ideal used singly as focal points, or in pairs framing a vista, doorway or path.

Collections
A quite different use of pots is to display a collection of related plants, which together form an interesting botanical display. Below is one such example in my greenhouse — a collection of small succulents and alpines. Later in this article, I’ll discuss my potted collection of Hostas. For such displays, it is important that the pots work well together — all being the same color or material, for example. Likewise, it is generally preferable to use fairly plain pots that do not shout for attention so that the eye is drawn to the individual plants.

Seasonal displays
Another important use of containers is for seasonal displays, typically consisting of brightly coloured winter, spring or summer flowers. A good example of this would be a collection of pots around a front door, which can be changed regularly as the season progresses (see my May doorstep display, below.) When there are several pots together like this, it is often not necessary for every pot to be especially attractive in its own right. Instead, the more expensive, ornamental pots can be placed towards the front, with simpler more economical pots further back. I find black plastic pots are perfect of this situation, as they are cheap and their colour retreats into the shadows, helping the flowers stand out. Seasonal displays can be kept fresh by regularly adding and removing pots as they come into flower and go over.

summer

Lilies

These white asiatic lilies have produced a reliable display for me for the last four years, increasing substantially from the original five bulbs I planted (June)

A pot of lilies in full flower can be a stunning sight, as you can see in these examples from my garden

Lily bulbs are ideal candidates for growing in pots as they can easily be moved into view when for the few short weeks they are in flower. I start mine off in a cold greenhouse, which reduces problems with slugs and lily beetles. After flowering, I park them in an out-of-the-way spot to die down naturally.

Asiatic lilies are generally the easiest to grow, with upward pointing large star-shaped trumpets, although they are unscented. Oriental lilies (including Roselilies) are the next most reliable category in my experience. These have recurved petals and generally hang downwards like turks-caps. Many are highly perfumed. I have also had success with Trumpet lilies — Lilium regale, and its hybrids.

▷ Roselilies are a double-flowered breed, which lack stamens. Most are scented. (July)

PLANTING LILY BULBS
Use a large, deep pot. The one here is frost-proof terracotta, 30cm tall, 40cm wide at the brim. This is suitable for five to seven large bulbs. Use a loam-based compost such as John Innes No 3, and add additional sharp grit to improve drainage and deter slugs. Many lilies are stem-rooting, so benefit from being buried deep, with a good 15cm (6in) of soil above them.

CARE
Lilies need consistent moisture in the growing season but resent being waterlogged, especially in the winter and early spring. Feed them with a high-potash fertiliser (e.g. tomato feed) in spring and early summer to aid flowering. After flowering, remove seed pods, but let the stems and leaves die down naturally so that energy can be directed into the bulbs for next year.

1 Lilium ‘Miss Feya’ — A huge oriental lily. ‘Miss Feya’ is a variety of tree lily. These cultivars grow to 1.5m (5ft) or taller, and bear dozens of huge, 18cm (7″), pendulous flowers with recurved petals which have a powerful perfume. Their stems are strong, but I stake them to stop them spreading too wide. Deep pink, late July.

2 Lilium regale hybrid— I do not know the variety of this trumpet lily, but it clearly has L. regale in its parentage, having creamy yellow centred flowers with salmon-pink backs. It has performed reliably for me for years. I grow it behind other potted perennials to hide its simple black plastic pot. Cream, early July.

3 Lilium ‘Inuvik’ — A compact, dwarf asiatic lily growing to 45cm (18″), with big, pure white flowers. I’m trying them for the first time this year, and so far they have impressed me. Stems are sturdy and upright; foliage dense and dark green… Nice! I may promote them to long-term terracotta pots. White, June.

1

Hosta

collection

Hostas are another perennial that can be grown very successfully in pots. If you have ever tried them in the garden border you will know how difficult it is to keep them free of slug damage. In pots, you stand a fighting chance.

My containerised Hosta display (above) includes several small-growing Hostas, to the front, which are planted in ornamental glazed pots. For the larger Hostas, behind, I use more economic black plastic pots, as they are barely visible. Growing miniature Hostas in pots is beneficial, as it is much easier to keep an eye on them and move the pots if they start to become swamped by larger plants.

Hostas thrive in shade, so I have sited my display in a shady corner, visible from the kitchen door. By selecting Hosta varieties with different leaf colour, size and texture, an interesting foliage display is easy to maintain for the whole growing season.

1. Hosta ‘Royal Wedding’

Fresh green leaves with an irregular pale-golden margin. A vigorous Hosta which makes a 60cm wide clump in a few years. Tall white flower spikes in July/August.
Foliage ↑40cm ↔70cm

2. Hosta ‘Purple Heart’

Large, elegant, heart-shaped mid-green leaves with a maroon leaf-base and stems. Good clear ribbing. Late emerging. Pale mauve trumpet flowers on 45cm red stems in late summer.
Foliage ↑40cm ↔55cm

3. Hosta ‘Stiletto’

A miniature Hosta, with narrow, blade-like green leaves that have a narrow, variegated, margin. Cute and spreading to form a little colony. Moss has taken up residence in my pot, which adds to the woodland charm.
Foliage ↑15cm ↔40cm

4. Hosta ‘June’

Recently planted from a plug — this Hosta has lime green leaves with blue margins. It is supposedly resistant to slugs. For what it’s worth, it was awarded Hosta of the year 2021.
Foliage ↑30cm ↔65cm

5. Hosta ‘Blue Mouse Ears’

Another miniature Hosta, this one has small, thick round blue leaves. The foliage is tightly packed, producing a very textured effect. Short stems of lavender flowers appear in summer.
Foliage ↑15cm ↔25cm

6. Hosta ‘First Frost’

A strong growing variety with thick blue leaves with a yellow margin. Named because it looks good right up until the first frosts. Hosta of the year 2010.
Foliage ↑40cm ↔70cm

7. Hosta sp.

An unknown species collected from Akagi nature park, Japan, and sold by Beth Chatto Gardens. Glossy, green, ribbed leaves, with lilac-purple flower in summer..
Foliage ↑40cm ↔70cm

2

Agapanthus

in pots

Dark blue African lily (Agapanthus africanus / Headbourne hybrid?). Evergreen, frost tender. (↑90cm Jul/Aug)

Agapanthus — also known as African Lilies — are ideal perennials for growing in pots, as long as they are given good drainage and not overwatered.

Looking wonderful through spring and summer, I have agapanthus growing in terrazzo, black-plastic and terracotta pots of different shapes and sizes, although I think my favourites are round planters, like the ones shown here.

Above & Below: terrazzo pots, ⌀ 40cm
Right: glazed Aptera pot, ⌀ 35cm

▷ Agapanthus ‘Ever White’ is one of the new repeat-blooming varieties that flowers for up to three months (↑60cm Jul-Sep)

APRIL: The architectural foliage of Agapanthus is effective even out of flower.

Agapanthus overwintering in my greenhouse

BREAKING OUT
After a few years of growth, a potted agapanthus is likely to fill the container with a dense root ball quite capable of cracking its container. So, be prepared to remove and divide congested clumps every 4-5 years.

DIVISION
In early spring, Agapanthus clumps can be divided using a sharp spade or saw, chopping them into several smaller pieces, each with two or three shoots at the top. These can be replanted to create new plants.

FROST PROTECTION
Most Agapanthus varieties are hardy (-5C to -10C), however, plants in pots are more vulnerable than ones in the ground. For this reason, I move mine into a cold greenhouse for the winter. Deciduous varieties do not need winter light, so can be overwintered in a shed or garage.

WINTER WATER NEEDS
Although Agapanthus goes dormant in the winter, and can be kept on the dry side, which will help protect it from freezing. However, plants should not be allowed to dry out fully, otherwise flowering will be reduced.


3

Tip

One of the problems with any planter that tapers towards the neck, is that it can be very difficult to remove plants in the future. In some cases, I have had to resort to breaking a perfectly good pot to remove an over-crowded Agapanthus or Hosta that had become pot-bound.

One solution is to place a cheap plastic nursery pot inside the ornamental container. Although roots will probably still find their way into the soil between the two pots, it will almost inevitably be easier to get them out when the time comes.

If necessary, you can force a blade (such as an old bread knife) down the outside of the plastic pot, severing any stray roots, to help free the plant.

Bowls

for perennials
& bulbs

I have several bowls — both terrazzo and plastic — which I use to display a variety of bulbs and perennials. Being broad and shallow, bowls are ideal for growing smaller perennials like alpines and low-growing bulbs. Such displays work well in front of taller pots, but they also look good alone on raised surfaces, such as tables or low walls, bringing the plants closer to eye level. Bowls are inherently stable, and are less likely to get knocked over.

Terrazzo bowl, h20 ⌀40cm
A late winter display of dwarf Narcissus ‘Jumblie’ and crocus (February)

A 3-SEASON Bulb Bowl

By planting bulbs, annuals and perennials in a single container, it is possible (if challenging) to achieve several flushes of flowers across the year. The first problem is finding plants that can rub along together without swamping each other. The second is accommodating the dying foliage of earlier plants, which can spoil the look of those that emerge later. Here is my most successful — if imperfect — attempt yet, which has four flushes of flowers over nine months.

In early spring, a permanent underplanting of spring bulbs come into flower, creating the first display of the year (above). This is soon followed by Blue Anemone blanda in April (1, below). In the centre of the bowl is a clump of Allium ‘Millennium’ which comes into flower in late July and August, attracting dozens of bees (2). Once the Allium has finished flowering in September, I cut down the spent stems and plant bedding cyclamen around the edge, which will flower until the frosts (3, below). They will gradually fill out and cover the allium foliage as it dies back. Some of them even make it through to spring (see top photo)

The same bowl at other times of the year (April – September)

Where to buy

Plastic Bowl, Ø40 × H15cm
Muddy Hands Ltd, eBay £12.99

Stone-effect bowl, white Ø55 × H23cm Primrose £37.49

Alpines, Herbs & Bulbs in Bowls

1 MOSS SAXIFRAGE (Saxifraga x arendsii) — I planted five large plug plants of this red-flowered evergreen alpine in a 40cm bowl two years ago. This spring it produced a wonderful display that easily outlasted the tulips. April.

2 HERB BOWL (Helichrysum italicum and Thymus serpyllum)—The creeping thyme self-seeded into this bowl, but pairs beautifully with the silvery foliage of the curry plant. June.

3 WHITE NERINES — Nerines — AKA Guernsey lilies — are ideal grown in bowls, as they flower best when they become congested. However, they must be overwintered undercover, as a hard frost can turn them to mush. October.

4

A Modern

aesthetic

Keeping it simple

Too many different pots, in too many colours and styles, can make a garden feel busy and disjointed. A greater harmony can be achieved by using a single colour and/or material. In this view of my white garden, all of the pots are dark grey terrazzo, but in a variety of shapes. All of the flowers are white, but limited to just a few varieties. The photo above shows three large clumps of white starflower (Ipheion ‘Alberto Castillo’) growing in the dark-grey pots, creating a pleasing rhythm. March.

Keeping it simple

Too many different pots, in too many colours and styles, can make a garden feel busy and disjointed. A greater harmony can be achieved by using a single colour and/or material. In this view of my white garden, all the pots are dark grey terrazzo, but in a variety of shapes. All the flowers are white, but limited to just a few varieties. The photo above shows three large clumps of white starflower (Ipheion ‘Alberto Castillo’) growing in the dark-grey pots, creating a pleasing rhythm. March.

Pot: 40cm ⌀32cm (Aug)

Pineapple lily bulbs (Eucomis autumnalis)
growing in a terrazzo pot

Terrazzo pots are heavy and generally long-lasting. The dark grey pigment, however, gradually fades, which can create an attractive patina, as it has done here. In some cases, I prefer to paint them. The pineapple lilies are planted 6in (15cm) deep, beneath a layer of white Starflower bulbs (Ipheion ‘Alberto Castillo’) which flower in early spring, providing two seasons of interest.

Pot: 45cm ⌀35cm (May)

White summer container
in a large terrazzo pot

I have two of these large planters which sit outside my kitchen door. For the last two years I have planted them in the spring with a selection of white summer annuals which will flower for many months. The circular wire support is attractive and practical, helping contain the tall central cosmos. Above White trailing Bacopa, Pelargonium and Cosmos. In winter, I plant white cyclamen here.

Evergreens in pots

In this part of my garden, a large white urn sports a clipped box ball, acting as a classy foil for the white ‘Purissima’ tulips growing at its feet. Fibre-cement pot, ⌀55 H50cm

Evergreens in pots

△ In this part of my garden, a large white urn sports a clipped box ball, acting as a classy foil for the white ‘Purissima’ tulips growing at its feet. Fibre-cement pot, ⌀55 H50cm

Pots: ⌀28cm (Jun)

Architectural Minimalism
with glazed ceramic pots

This stylish black and white arrangement uses contrasting shades and shapes with simple textural foliage. The white ceramic pot holds dwarf goat’s beard (Aruncus aethusifolius) which has dark green fern-like foliage and white fluffy flowers. The black pebble pot contains an ornamental version of a rampant weed — variegated ground elder (Aegopodium Podagraria ‘Variegatum’) — a beautiful foliage plant, but not one you want to let loose in your garden beds.

Modern Classical

The centrepiece of this doorstep arrangement is the clipped box pyramid. Its simple white versailles planter is a classic design which works well in contemporary context.

Black terrazzo pot, ⌀35 H38cm

Versatile plastic pot, 45cm cube

Agapanthus in ball terrazzo pot, ⌀40 H30cm

Modern Classical

△ The centrepiece of this doorstep arrangement is the clipped box pyramid. Its simple white versailles planter is a classic design which works well in contemporary context.

Where to buy

Poly-terrazzo egg planter, Ø34 × H28cm
The Palm Center £40.46

GRP ball planter, Ø31 × H24cm
Various colours and finishes
Contemporary Planters £129.99

5

Traditional

terracotta pots

Terracotta pots have a warmth and character which only improves with age

ACCELERATED AGEING
New terracotta pots can be rather clean and boring. Fortunately, the ageing process can be accelerated by half burying them in soil over winter. This works well with spring bulbs which are planted up in the autumn. Come spring when the bulbs are about to flower, the pots can be lifted, revealing unique patterns of algae and water stains, giving them a distinct antique appearance. The pot shown above is a good example of this treatment. (White ‘Purissima’ tulips)

6

Fantastic

plastic planters

August: A summer door-step display of colourful annuals in cheap plastic planters, pots and bowls.

Plastic containers offer many advantages over stone, terracotta or ceramic. Not only are they much lighter and easier to move around, but are generally cheaper too.

I look for plastic planters with a textured surface, as they look less ‘plasticy’. The specials aisle in certain supermarkets can be a good place to pick up such bargains.

▷ Dahlia ‘Art Fair’ planted in textured plastic container Lidl, £14.99 (Aug)

This pot is part of an orange and purple summer display at the front of my house. It contains marigolds (an annual) with purple Heuchera (a perennial). By the end of the season, the marigolds will die off, and the Heuchera will have become a substantial clump. I can then either keep the pot with just a large clump of Heuchera, or plant it out in the garden.

The pot is a good size, plastic and nicely textured in a stone-effect grey. They were on sale briefly this summer as a centre aisle special in Aldi for just £9.99, so I got four. (You can check their latest offerings here).

Here is another pot that forms part of my purple and orange themed summer display. This one contains a plum-purple nemesia, bright orange begonia and a fluorescent-orange pelargonium. Dark-grey or black pots really help the colours pop.

This large anthracite container is a generous 39cm diameter and 31cm tall. Available from a number of retailers on eBay, it is currently a very affordable £17.49 (UKBuyZone, eBay)

When planting bulbs and annuals that only flower for a few weeks (such as these tulips), I often use plain black nursery pots rather than ornamental containers. These can easily be mixed in with more ornamental pots, as shown in this spring display.

△ When planting bulbs and annuals that only flower for a few weeks (such as these tulips), I often use plain black nursery pots rather than ornamental containers. These can easily be mixed in with more ornamental pots, as shown in this spring display.

Large horticultural pots…

These are basic and very economical planters for general growing purposes, but also perfect for popping behind more ornamental planters in container displays. I use them all the time for growing on perennials, divisions, cuttings, bulbs, trees and shrubs. For bulbs and perennials, I find it is best to use large pots (15L minimum) as anything smaller is prone to dry out too quickly.

Large, tough plastic plant pots
15L Ø32 × H25cm — Pack of 10, £20.50
20L Ø35.5 × H29cm — Pack of 6, £22.85
Oaklands Gardens, eBay

Extra large tree and shrub planters
45L Ø50 × H36cm — £7.50
60L Ø55 × H38cm — £9.61
LBS Horticulture

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2 thoughts on “Creative Ways to Use Pots in the Garden”

    • So pleased you like it! I only post articles from my own experience and photos from my own garden. I hope that gives something authentic and unique. Please do leave comments and questions on any other articles you enjoy. I try to reply to everyone.

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