Nothing is easier to train into an espalier form than the Fire Thorn (Pyracantha). If you want to get in some practise before launching into espalier apples and pears, then this is a good way to start. An espalier is a way of pruning shrubs and fruit trees so that they create a series of horizontal branches — usually against a fence. This makes a very compact and ornamental display – far more stylish than a normal hedge. Pyracanthas are excellent candidates for training as they produce an abundance of side shoots along every branch. The shoots are extremely pliable and can easily be bent into shape and twisted around wires. Trained this way, Pyracanthas can cover almost any size area: As you can see above, mine is now 6’6″ (2m) high and heading for 12′ (3.6m) wide and it is only three years old! Along with this they are generous with their flowers which are produced in May and are followed in late summer by berries which can be red, orange or yellow, depending on variety.

Unfortunately, flowers occur mainly on young wood, so flowering will be curtailed on a mature espalier as much of this new growth will be cut back each year to maintain a neat form. That said, flowers should be seen as a bonus, as the main purpose of an ornamental espalier from a design perspective is the creation of a strong geometric form which provides structure and interest all year round. In this regard pyracantha excels as it is evergreen and very tolerant of tight clipping. The results can be as striking as the finest topiary and even take on some of the qualities of Japanese cloud pruned shrubs if that is your thing.
Downsides
Pyracanthas have several downsides. First off, the thorns. The thorns are vicious and everywhere. When pruning, thick gloves are recommended. On the plus side, any fence with pyracantha on it will prove a massive deterrent to intruders. Second, many pyracanthas suffer from fireblight — a bacterial infection which leads to stems wilting and dying back. Affected stems need cutting out immediately. This disease is spread from plant to plant by pollinating insects so pruning to prevent flowering is an effective preventative strategy and a worthwhile compromise to protect a mature espalier that may have taken years of attention to create. Fireblight affects several related species including hawthorn, apples and pears and can be spread between them. If you grow any of these, keeping your pyracantha flowerless will help protect it (and them) from infection. Alternatively, the ‘Saphyr’ range of pyracanthas is resistant to fireblight.
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How to espalier a pyracantha
Initial training:
(first few years) to establish the espalier framework
Creating the main horizontal laterals
- Each year, tie in the leader (the strong central vertical shoot) to the cane.
- Once the desired height is reached the leader should be cut back to the same level as the horizontal tier
- Select two strong side shoots (to the left and right) which are close to the wires and tie these in.
- Cut back any other side shoots to 2inches (5cm) from the main stem
Extending existing laterals (horizontal branches)
- Tie in all new extension growth from the tips of the side branches. (The shoots are flexible enough that they can often just be twisted around the wires)
- Once a side branch reaches its final length cut back any further growth
- Cut back any other side shoots to 2inches (5cm)
Once the main framework is in place:
Annual maintenance pruning to keep the form
- Simply clip over the foliage with shears to maintain the shape (as you would topiary)
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Chronology of my espalier pyracantha
1st Year (2018)
August 2018 – Planting and initial training
I purchased this plant from a nursery as it had three good shoots in a symmetrical arrangement. I tied the two side shoots down into a horizontal position along tensioned wires that I had previously set up along this West-facing (actually WNW facing) fence:

- See my post on creating superior wire supports here.
2nd Year (2019)
April 2019 – First-year training
This year I renovated the fence behind the pyracantha, adding trellis to the top, and staining it black.

The nylon Gripple wires had to be removed during this process, but due to their clever tensions block this was easy to do.
- See my post on making the trellis and staining the fence here

Pyracantha produces multiple side shoots along every main branch, so you can usually find close to the right place to train along a wire. Unfortunately, mine didn’t have one to fill the second row on the right. I assumed that it might put out one in the following year, but this proved not to be the case, so my espalier may be forever lopsided.
Here’s the plan: if no suitable side shoot starts to grow I will allow a shoot from a horizontal above or below that wire to develop and train that one across the gap and then along the horizontal wire. You can see such training in this flowering current at West Dean gardens:

3rd Year (2020)

In just two full years of training you can see how far the Pyracantha espalier has come. I am still missing a couple of tiers, but there is plenty of time to fix that. The effect is already impressive and has taken very little work to achieve. It has created a definite focal point and (along with the black fence stain) made a real feature of this previously drab part of the garden.

Update: Autumn 2020

True to form, there’s a really good crop of berries this year. In future I expect fewer as pyracantha flower (and hence fruit) on new wood, and as the espalier becomes mature, I will be pruning most of this off. But for now: enjoy!
Update: 4th Year (2021)

As you can see the pyracantha is looking really great! This spring I pruned off all of the shoots coming off the main stem between each horizontal tier revealing the ‘trunk’. This has really improved the overall look and brought it much closer to my intended vision.
I didn’t do this earlier in case I needed any of the side shoots to train in to replace a failing main horizontal shoot, but this is no longer necessary as they are all doing so well.
If you look at the previous photos (May 2020) you can see that a couple of the side shoots were quite under-developed, but they have grown out nicely and the whole thing is looking much more balanced.
I cannot emphasise enough how easy this espalier has been to create and maintain. I only attend to it two or three times per year, and then only for 20 minutes or so. This is really something anyone could achieve. The main requirement is having the vision of where you are going and then being persistent over several years.
By the way, the black fence looks good doesn’t it? It sets off the vivid green foliage and grey trunk beautifully: much better than the boring grey-fence panels did before I stained them.
Update: 5th Year (2022)

It is interesting to compare this photo (mid-April 2022) to the one immediately above (early-May 2021). You can see how much it grows in one year. Of course it was pruned in the summer of 2021 to shorten shoots that formed along the branches so that the foliage remained tight to the branches. The tips of each lateral were also tied in to the wires, extending the arms, on average, an additional 30cm either side. With each passing year the espalier gets better and better. It is looking really impressive now. Not bad for 5 years work!
MAY 2022

Just coming into flower.
SEPTEMBER 2022


Update: 6th Year (2023)
The pyracantha reached a width of approximately 14 ft (3.6m) this year. It has continued to be one of the highlights of the garden, despite being low-maintenance and easy to live with.


△ April 2023
The photo above shows the pyracantha espalier in the context of the wider garden. It fits in perfectly with the topiary theme, creating a wonderful and space-saving backdrop.
◁ MAY 2023
New leaves and emerging flower-buds are bright green. You can clearly see the six tiers in this picture. The lower tier becomes partly covered by the Japanese forest grass growing at the base of the trunk.
▽ SEPTEMBER 2023
With careful pruning of only the longer shoots, I was able to keep more of the berries this year. They certainly produce a long-lasting display: I think they have been clearly visible for a couple of months so far.

▽ December 2023
Being evergreen, the winter form of the pyracantha remains strong. Here it is outlined in frost.

I pruned off the berries soon after, before they turned to mush.
Update: 7th Year (2024)
Going for Green
At the start of the new year, the pyracantha was approximately 15 ft (4.5m) across. I snapped the photo below with my old iPhone, so it’s not the best quality, but it provides the same head-on shot, like the previous photos, for comparison (April, 2024):

Between April and May, the Pyracantha puts on a lot of growth, ending up rather shaggy. I decided to trim it early, taking it back to produce neat horizontals, but in doing so removing most of the flowers.
This is an option every year in the spring: leave the flowers on, and only trim longer shoots, or cut it back tighter. The former gives you flowers and fruit, but the latter provides a neater looking green form. By cutting back hard this year, I hope to improve the lines, so that I can have flowers and fruit next year.
Here are some photos that show how beautiful it looks when kept as a simple evergreen structure:



The choice of flower & fruit vs none can be made (I have found) on a year by year basis. To make the point, next year I’ll aim to keep the flowers and fruit and see if I can see any difference.
Update: 8th Year (2025)
Back to Berries

Here is the garden in May 2025, with the Pyracantha entering its eighth year of training, and now 19ft / 5.8m wide.
I have only given it a light prune, just removing long shoots with secateurs. I think that there were fewer of these side shoots this year — possibly a result of keeping the shrub more tightly pruned last year.
Following last year’s tight pruning, I was not sure that it would produce such a heavy yield of flowers, as pyracantha flowers on new wood, and with tight pruning, there might not be so much young growth for flowers to grow from.
But I needn’t have been worried, becasue, as you can see, there are flowers all along the side arms, creating a very beautiful display for many weeks.
I like Pyracantha flowers as they are very neat, precise and numerousl: starting from pointelist buds, like so many pin heads, which open to numerous clean five-petalled stars.
May 2025






◁ June 2025
Allowing flowers to form on a Pyracantha espalier (by not pruning them off in April), has a few downsides, in that one has to deal with the faded blooms (in June) and rotting fruit (In mid-winter), both of which are mitigated by tight pruning in spring.
Here, you can see the spent flowers, which brown as they go over, leaving the pyracantha looking a bit tatty for a few weeks. The old petals can be encouraged to fall by shaking the limbs, or going over them with a soft brush.
Any pruning over the coming months, needs to be done with care, so you don’t accidentally cut off too many of the berries that are forming.
These small inconveniences may not bother you and you can always create a distraction, such as here, where the pot of white lilies is the main focus, pulling the eye away from the floral debris behind.
The berries form slowly in large hanging clusters, over the next month or two. Initially each berry is small and green, but gradually they swell and take on colour. In my case, that being a brilliant orange, in full flow by the end of August. The berries persist right through to December most years, at which point they begin to rot. In some gardens, birds will take them earlier.
October 2025

The berries are stunning this year. there are so many, that the limbs of the espalier are weighed down. I’ll try tightening the Gripple support wires to see if I can straighten them out a bit!
Update: 9th Year (2026)
The pyracantha is now a full three fence panels across (18ft / 4.8m).
Spring Trim (Mid-March)
I lightly cut back the foliage to remove some of the remaining dried fruit stalks. It is notable, that after the hot summer last year, and with such a heavy crop of fruit, the foliage is looking rather sparse in places. I managed to tighten up the Gripple wires a little. The fence is gathering surface algae which I’ll try and remove before the pyracantha puts on too much growth.



Note: THIS POST WILL CONTINUE TO BE UPDATED AS TIME GOES BY

It’s a lovely plant, and the way you have got it to spread and develop is gorgeous!
The flowers, when looked at closely are really pretty!
Hi, I’m just starting to espalier a pyracantha for the 1st time and have found your posting on this very helpful. Just a couple of questions:
If you cut back the vertical leader to the level of the highest horizontals does the plant continue to thrown a leader until you reach the desired hight?
Also what distance have you left between the horizontal rows?
Hi Mick, glad the article has been helpful.
The distance between rows on my espalier is 13 inches (33cm), but you can set them further or closer as you wish is very adaptable.
Cutting back the leader is only necessary to force production of side branches: you would cut it just below the level of a wire, forcing the stem to make several side shoots. Two of these you would tie in later in the year, keeping a third shoot to make the new leader. In practice, pyracantha naturally produces so many side shoots that I have never needed to cut back the leader, just tying in the best side shoots as they appear. This enabled me to get to full height quicker and has not stopped me getting the horizontals I wanted. The only downside is that some of my horizontals are a couple of inches higher or lower than ideal, but the young shoots are so flexible that they have been easy to tie in anyway.
Hope that’s helpful,
Keir
Thanks, Kier. That was very helpful.
What variety of pyracantha did you use? I would love to do this and I’m wondering if Mohave is a good choice? I heard it was resistant to disease but can grow very quickly and rather tall which has me wondering which is best to buy? I would like to keep it to 6-7 ft tall. Your project is so inspiring!
Hi J,
Mine is a orange berried variety (Orange glow I think) but almost any variety can be trained into espalier and other forms.
As long as you prune it you can keep it within bounds. The disease resistant varieties are probably a good idea. If you are able to choose the plant (rather than mail order) then look for one that already has some branches in the right place, otherwise, look for a tall specimen with many young side branches as these will grow out and can be trained in.
Its great fun to do and with Firethorn it is relatively easy to do.
Thank you, I think I’m going to try this! I ordered two of the gripple kits to help get me started with the grid trellis. Thank you so much for your very detailed photos and for sharing your experience.
J
Great read, thank you for sharing your experiences in training your pyracantha. I’m going to enjoy having a browse through the rest of your website.
Thanks Jason. Glad you’ve found the blog useful and interesting.
Keir, this was so beautiful it has inspired me to start one to be viewed from my kitchen window. I will not have the great contrast from a black fence, never the less I’m going to give it a try. I have the Gripple kits and a Fiery Cascade Pyracantha. I was going to use a verticle Gripple wire to train the lead but I just read through your instructions again and notice you are using a cane. Is this for better support? My lead is going up the fence post.
I just used the cane to give some visual indication of the “trunk” – it’s not essential – you can use anything sufficiently rigid or taut. What you want is somewhere to fasten the lead to to keep it as straight as possible while it grows. A cane might be better than a wire in this respect.
Have fun creating your espalier. Send me pics!
Nice work dude, wonderful to be able to visualise the timeline of the project – the contrast between the vegetative display and the black background looks dope !
Just yesterday I planted up 7 specimens against a high retaining wall that’ll be a key feature in the garden all year round.
After viewing your pictures I’m super stoked about the development potential of my project.
Best ✌️
Sounds great. Would love to see the results. Send me pics/links when finished ;)
Keir this is wonderful. Such a well presented web page doing your pleached pyracantha really proud. I’ve been ruminating over something like this that I can grow on fences in my garden, that’s got all year round interest, but can be kept neat. I’m just staining my fences now and wondered how you’ll manage re-staining yours in 5 or so years time when they need re-doing? I wonder also if something like this is possible with a pyracantha in a pot on my deck?
Sorry for the late reply Lexy… I have already applied a second coat of stain over some algae that firmed on the slats. With a narrow brush and patience it is possible. As for growing a pyracantha in a pot – in my opinion it would only work for a few years. Long term pot-grown shrubs/trees need to get their roots down into the soil under the pot. Also, decking will rot under a pot. I would cut a hole out of the decking and sink a nice large container through it down to soil level, knock some large holes in the bottom, then you’d be good to go. That would be a permanent solution and almost identical visually.
I’m ready to do this…………..with one obstacle in my way. I have a large, oversized pot that I “was” gonna use because the brick wall that I want to espalier is along a narrow walkway. After reading a few post, I’m now wondering if it wouldn’t be better to chip away some of the concrete and create a tree well/pit and plant it, letting it grow from the soil underneath the walkway.
Hi Kristi,
Shrubs in pots are never a good idea. They soon run out of nutrients, suffer inconsistent watering and get root bound.
If you can, get it down into the soil under your path. Don’t make the hole too small though, as the roots need air and water and the trunk needs space to expand.
Hi Keir
This is a great blog and summary, thank you!
Planted mine against a brick wall today, with tension wires in place.
My question is what you recommend to tie in the shoots/stem and whether you replace them as they grow/thicken?
Thanks again, really appreciate the time you have taken to explain the process. There isn’t very much as clear as this on t’internet.
Guy
Hi Guy, only just spotted your comment! Thank you so much – glad my post was helpful! Great to hear about your own project.
Personally, I’d move the clematis. Firstly, because the pyracantha espalier will look better as a stand-alone piece, bud secondly, you will need to prune/train the pyracantha in the summer, and the clematis will be in the way.
Hi Keir,
Brilliant project, looking really good! How did you tie in the horizontals to the wire? Is it just wrapped around?
Yes, I just wrapped the shoots around the wires.
Nice post Kier, well done. looks great. What are the overall dimensions of the bed that you have done this in? how deep is it with foundations of fence/paving. Also what aspects is yours on. Thanks.
Hi! The bed is just under 4ft x 1.5ft. At least 50% of this goes down to subsoil, the other 50% has concrete footings at least partially intruding. That is plenty of room for roots to find their way down and under. The fence faces slightly North of West. It has a two-story buildings within 4m south/east and two 1 story buildings 3m to the east and north. Consequently, it only gets direct sun on it for a couple of hours in the afternoon, and almost no direct sun in the winter. Hope that helps.
Hi Keir,
You’ve really given me inspiration. We have a beautiful Italian style court yard , with a 3m wall. Unfortunately the patio has 3ft, (it’s raised from the garden) of foundations so there’s no way we can get to the soil. The garden center said the pyracantha would grow fine in a wooden planter, 50cm x 25cm sloping down to 15cm with a depth of 21cm
I’m not so sure… could you advise
Thanks Jenny
Hi Jenny,
Well, I think that’s bad advice. Trees (or large shrubs) in pots rarely do well. They need much deeper soil than people realise to thrive. Even a two foot cubed planter (60x60x60cm) will only support a pyracantha for a few years before it becomes stressed and starts to deteriorate. The trick that garden designers use for trees/shrubs in pots is to use bottomless pots, so the roots can get down into some real ground. In your case, I’d be tempted to lift a slab, dig put a bit of the sub-base, then place a bottomless trough over the hole. Fill it with soil and plant your pyracantha. After a couple of years its roots will find their way down through the sub-base, after which it will be fine. A wooden trough will rot after a few years, so you’ll need to figure out how to replace it when the time comes. I reckon this has a good chance of success as long as it’s not solid concrete in the bottom of the hole. And you’ll need to keep it well watered for the first few years.
Bunny Guinness video on growing trees in bottomless pots… https://youtu.be/i_jXvxLIZkQ?si=iNXGx1sh1AxOOejT
We were also told a pot would be okay. But going to see if we can take up a patio slab!
The position has a lot of sun will that be okay?
What are the plants either side of your Pyracantha please?
The effort in giving it a proper root run (lifting the patio slab) will pay off in the long run. Full sun is fine. Just keep it watered for the first year and in drought. The plants either side of mine (at the base) are Japanese forest grass (Hakonechloa macra).